We love Lijiang because it combines splendid nature with gorgeous historic architecture. The town sits at the foot of the Jade Dragon Mountains. This mountain range is part of the UNESCO listed Three Parallel Rivers of Yunnan Protected area.
The ancient town itself is gorgeous. So much, that UNESCO included it in its list of World Heritage Sites. You see? We are talking about historic architecture, a millenary culture, and breathtaking nature. That’s why we believe a visit to Lijiang is mandatory.
We prepared this post with all the information you need to enjoy Lijiang. We are sure you will love it so much that you will want to come back. That happened to us!
Brief History
Lijiang’s history goes back 1000 years. The Southern Dong Dynasty founded the town in the late 13th Century. It became a major trading hub on the Ancient Tea Horse Road, linking China with Tibet, Burma, and India. The Chinese traded tea and other goods for much needed Tibetan Horses.
Therefore, Lijiang became a place of cultural exchange. The local Naxi people absorbed Buddhism and animism from other regions. They are the ones that developed the unique Dongba culture and hieroglyphs.
The Naxi Mu Family Clan controlled the town during the Qing Dynasty until 1723, when the Emperor established direct control. Lijiang’s importance diminished considerably until it became a popular tourist spot in the 1950s. Today, people from all over China flock to the town to admire its nature and architecture.
Places to Visit and Things to Do
Explore the Old Town on Foot
The first thing you have to do in Lijiang is to turn off your phone and walk about the Old Town without a plan. Locals call it Dayan. You can walk along the cobbled stoned streets and along the canals for hours. Every single street is fascinating.
The epicenter of Dayan is Sifang Street. The town’s three major canals meet here: middle, east, and west. The middle one is the oldest and most vibrant one. Traditional wooden houses line the canal. It’s also full of willow trees. At night, red lanterns illuminate it in all of its glory.
The west canal is famous for its old watermills. Our favorite is the big one close to the town’s entrance. Besides, locals sell mushrooms next to the canal. The east canal is quieter. Houses here have gardens that spill over the water.
Visit the Mufu Palace
The Mufu Palace is so spectacular that locals call it the Forbidden City of Lijiang. It’s on Guangyi Street, some 10 minutes south of Sifang Street. The palace is on a slope that leads to Shizishan Hill. Thus the amazing views from the palace over the town and the hills.
The Mu clan that controlled the town built it in the 14th Century. The wooden structure blends Tibetan, Han and Naxi architecture. You have several courtyards to explore. Our favorite is the Orchid Garden.
Don’t forget to check the Taoist Temple within the palace. Once done, keep walking some 10 m to reach the top of Shizishan Hill. The Wangu Tower Scenic Spot is there. It’s full of trees and offers the best views of Lijiang.
Pose for a Photo by the Black Dragon Pool
From Sifang Street walk 1.2 miles (2 km) north towards the Elephant Hill. No worries, you will see the hill on your walk there. The Black Dragon Pool is a scenic park on the slopes of the hill with a lovely pond in the center.
The mountains reflect beautifully on the lake. Thus, it’s the perfect place to take pictures. In fact, you’ll see people from all over China in traditional costumes doing so. In particular on the 5 arch stone bridge.
The park has several structures worth your time. Our favorites are the Longsheng from 1737, the 5 Phoenix Tower, the Moon Temple, and the Forest of Steles.
Visit the Lijiang Museum (Dongba Culture Museum)
Though there are plans to build a new Dongba Culture Museum, to see its collection you have to visit the Lijiang Museum. Google maps and other websites are wrong. The museum is still called Lijiang and it’s next to the Black Dragon Pool.
As mentioned, the local Naxi people had (and still have) its own culture. They developed some of the earliest and most fascinating hieroglyphs in the world. You can see them and other fascinating exhibits inside the museum. It’s a mid-sized museum with a garden, a lovely fish pond, and even a yak!
Go Trekking at Tiger Leaping Gorge
The Tiger Leaping Gorge is halfway between Lijiang and Shangri-La. We are talking about a gorge twice the depth of the Grand Canyon! The views will blow your mind, the fresh air clean your lungs, and the powerful river beneath fill you with joy.
We believe it’s one of the nicest places in China. The place is pretty big and you can trek for days. However, we did the easy Upper Gorge Trek. It took us 1.5 hours to walk along the river. It was magical! If you don’t want to climb the 1000 steps, you can take a lift.
This tour takes you to the Tiger Leaping Gorge.
Visit an Ancient Village or Two
Shuhe Old Town is on only 3 miles (5 km) from Lijiang and yet very few tourists visit. That’s exactly why you should go. Rumor has it that the Mu clan was born here. The town is full of ancient wooden mansions, bridges, canals, and trees. The Tea Museum next to the main square is pretty interesting.
From Shuhe it’s another 3 miles (5 km) to Baisha Village. Again, it’s a traditional Naxi village with historic wooden buildings. This one is famous for its bold murals depicting rural life. We liked it because of the views. The mountain range towers above the village, providing a dramatic backdrop.
Keep going 5 miles (9 km) north and you will reach Yushui Village. This one is even smaller and surrounded by trees. The Jade Water Village to the north is a sacred place. The Naxi come to this green area with ponds to pray to their deities.
Go on a Day Trip to Blue Moon Valley
If you are into nature, you will fall in love with the Blue Moon Valley. The area is some 20 miles (35 km) north of Lijiang. The valley is beneath the spectacular Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, east of the Tiger Leaping Gorge.
The deep blue massive lakes contrast with the green of the mountains and the white of the peaks. It’s a sight to behold. Several waterfalls, natural and manmade, dot the area. You can walk along the wooden paths admiring the views for hours. There are yaks too!
This tour takes you to Blue Moon Valley and Jade Dragon Mountain.
Try the Famous Yunnan Tea
Avoid the tourist traps and have tea at an authentic, and ancient, tea house. We can guarantee you that the two below are the real thing. You will notice that their doors have old wooden carvings, the kettles rest on charcoal, and the floors are made of stone.
Wangu Lou is 400 years old! It’s within the Wangu Tower Scenic Area. The views from its rooftop will take your breath away. You have to try their yak butter tea.
Xue Song Tea House is 300 years old. It’s on a quiet alley near Sifang Street. It has a charming courtyard where Naxi musicians play over the weekends. They have hundreds of clay jars where they ferment the traditional pu erh tea. We didn’t like it, but maybe you do!
Try Delicious Naxi Cuisine
To eat as a local you have to go to the Zhongyi Market, a 10 minute walk south of Sifang Street. It’s a local market where you can buy just about everything. Farmers from every corner of Yunnan come here to sell their fruits and vegetables. It’s famous for its duck meat and the beef hotspot, cooked for 12 hours! It opens at night too.
The Mu Clan Banquet Hall is inside the Mu Palace complex and really good. The place is beautiful and boasts original Ming tables. It’s famous for its Eight Treasures dish, which combines barley wine, local mushrooms, and a local ham.
Party Like Crazy at the Bar Street
Flower lined Jiubayi Street (aka Bar street) is quiet during the day but transforms into party central at nights. It begins next to the big water wheel and goes next to the canal. You can go bar hopping for hours.
Granted, most people partying at the Bar Street are tourists. But they are Chinese tourists from all over the country! Hence, the completely crazy and authentic vibe. The music is super loud and everybody dances as if there was no tomorrow.
How to Get to Lijiang
The closest airport to the city is the Lijiang Sanyi Airport, some 18 miles (30 km) south. Flights from most big cities in China arrive there, including from Shanghai and Beijing.
Buses from the airport arrive outside of Lijiang Old Town. Then you have to walk or take a taxi to your hotel. It’s better to take a shared van or a taxi directly to the old town.
Lijiang Train Station is 5 miles (8 km) south of the Old Town. Fast trains link it to Dali in 1.5 to 2.5 hours and Kunming in 3.5 to 4 hours. However, there are traditional sleeper trains from Chengdu (15 to 20 hrs) and Chongqing (18 to 20 hrs). You can buy train tickets here.
Public buses take you to the Old Town in half an hour. Inexpensive taxis do so in 15 minutes.
Where to Stay
We stayed at the Intercontinental Lijiang Hotel and loved it. It resembles a traditional Chinese palace with lovely gardens and courtyards. Swimming in the indoor pool after a long day exploring the city was fantastic. It’s got a great location, with a direct entrance to the old town.
On our second trip to the city we stayed at the Lijiang Gemmer Hotel, also within walking distance to major attractions. The rooms feature wooden floors, big bathrooms, and comfortable beds. However, what sets it apart is the service. They gave us fantastic tips and helped us organized everything. This one is great value for money.
