First things first: Yunnan is one of the most beautiful provinces of China. It’s full of culture, breathtaking nature, stunning architecture, and warm hosts. Kunming, its capital, does not disappoint either. In fact, is one of our favorite cities in the country.
Kunming is famous in China for its climate. It feels like spring all year round! That’s why it has so many lovely flower markets and tea plantations. The city homes superb historic architecture and a lovely lake with emerald water. Besides, a UNESCO listed forest is a step away.
Get Lost on the Pedestrian Streets of Kunming
One of the things we love the most about Kunming is its pedestrian streets. You see, we love to walk and we could do so for hours in the city. The best areas to stroll about are around Zhengyi Road, Sanshi Street, and Nanqiang Street.
All types of shops, restaurants, and historic buildings line Zhengyi Road. The city’s most famous landmark is here: the Jinma Biji Archaway. The Golden Horse and Jade Rooster arches preside over Jinbi Square.
Sanshi Street is famous for its markets and malls. Locals flock to Zhengyi Plaza to socialize and shop. Walk along Sanshi to Nanqiang Street (aka Nanping Pedestrian Street). It’s a massive pedestrian area full of neon signs, fancy shops, and food stalls.
Admire the East and West Temple Pagodas
Our favorite structures in the city are the East and West Temple Pagodas. We are talking about two 13 storied brick pagodas constructed in the 9th Century, during the Tan Dynasty. However, the East Pagoda was completely rebuilt in the 19th Century.
Locals call the East one Changle Temple Tower and the West one Sita Meihuayuan. The reconstructed old city gate Jinrilou is nearby. Go to the West Pagoda at night to see it fully illuminated in all of its glory. There’s a fun night market there.
From the West Pagoda walk some 1300 feet (400 m) east along a small pedestrian street to the East Pagoda. We strongly recommend trying the local specialty, ‘crossing the bridge noodles’ on the pedestrian street.
Visit the Flowers and Birds Market
The Flower and Bird Market is some 200 feet (500 m) from the Jinma Biji Archway. It opens 8:30 AM and closes 6:30 PM. Though not that big, it’s pretty dense. Locals sell flowers, fish, birds, pets, antiques, batik, and yunnan tea.
We would sit down on a tea stall close to the birds and spend hours people watching. Look out for the coffee shops on 2nd floors. You can see the chaotic market from above!
Now, if you love flowers, you have to go to the world’s largest flower market: Dounan Flower Market. It’s some 12 miles (20 km) from the center. You can take metro line 1 from the archway and get there in half an hour.
Rest in the Green Lake Park
Our favorite place in Kunming is the one and only Greek Lake Park, home of the Emerald Lake. The 50 acre (20 hectare) park is north of Zhengyi Road, next to Yunnan University Campus. It’s a half an hour walk from the arches.
If you go early in the morning, you will see locals practicing tai chi. The loop around the lake takes half an hour. There are tree lined paths, bridges, lotus flowers, and historic architecture.
Look out for the 9 dragon pond bridge from the Ming dynasty that connects the lake’s islands. We strongly recommend having tea and biscuits at the Heart of Lake Pavilion from the Qing Dynasty. It’s the best place to watch the birds.
Have Coffee on Kunming’s Coolest Street
Just a few steps from Green Lake Park lies Kunming’s most charming street, Wenlin. Students from nearby universities come here to talk, exchange ideas, and enjoy a cup of coffee or tea, often with a slice of cake. It’s one of the best places to get to know the locals.
You’ll find stylish cafés lining the Wenlin and nearby Xiangshengpo Street. We chose Prague Cafe Coffee Hall, where we enjoyed a delicious Americano and carrot cake. There, we met a couple of locals who were eager to hear about our trip around China.
Visit Yuantong Temple
Yuantong Temple was completed during the Tang Dynasty (9th Century) and totally rebuilt in 1696 during the Qing Dynasty. It’s Kunming’s oldest and most important Buddhist temple. It’s also one of the few in China that combines Theravada, Tibetan and Han Buddhism. It’s near the lake.
The temple opens from 8 AM to 5:30 PM. Go before 9 to listen to the monks chanting. Particularly interesting is the golden Buddha pavilion next to the pond. For jaw dropping views of the city, climb to the hilltop pagoda. It takes 10 minutes and there are handrails.
Take the Metro to Guandu Ancient Town
From the center take metro Line 1 to Xignyao Road Station and walk 10 minutes to Guandu Ancient Town. The first landmark you will see is the Guandu Mosque completed during the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368) and revamped during the Qing Dynasty. It’s next to the Guandu Temple.
The Tang Dynasty temple was expanded during the Qing Dynasty. They built the Diamond Pagoda, one of very few sandstone pagodas in the country. However, what we liked the most is the 500 year old tree inside the temple!
All types of eateries and shops line Guandu’s Ancient Post Road. Stop for tea at Yinsheng Tea House. The courtyards and antique furniture are beautiful. We had the local specialty, flatbreads near the Pagoda.
Visit Yunnan Provincial Museum
If you have extra time, it’s worth checking out the nearby Yunnan Provincial Museum. The largest museum in the city, it features exhibitions on Yunnan’s ethnic minorities, as well as artifacts uncovered from several tombs near Kunming.
The new museum building, located close to Guandu Ancient Town, opened in 2015. The impressive red structure is the work of Hong Kong based Rocco Design Architects. Their award-winning design is inspired by the UNESCO-listed Stone Forest.
The interior of the museum is just as impressive as the exterior. Particularly fascinating are the ancient bronze artifacts from the Dian culture. Our favorite is the Cattle and Tiger bronze altar. Don’t forget to bring your passport, or at least a photo of it.
Hike in the Western Hills Forest Park
Western Hills (Xishan) Forest Park is Kunming’s green lung and the best place to spend a day in nature. The 900 hectare (2,200 acre) park perfectly blends dramatic scenery with Buddhist and Taoist temples.
To get there, take Metro Line 3 to the final stop, conveniently named Western Hills Park. At the station, you’ll need to purchase an entrance ticket, which can also include bus transportation within the park.
We paid for the bus and a minibus that took us to the entrance of the Longmen (Dragon Gate) Scenic Area. From there, we climbed the stairs up to the Dragon Gate grottoes. It’s a long and tiring walk, but the views are breathtaking. If you don’t feel like walking, you can also take a cable car.
Go on a Day Trip to Shilin Stone Forest
The first time we went to Kunming we couldn’t go to the Shilin Stone Forest because we forgot our passports! Bring them to the train station and buy the train and shuttle bus combo to the park’s entrance. The entire journey takes less than 1.5 hours and costs 20 yuan.
We went to the UNESCO listed park on our second time in the city. Pay 130 Yuan and prepare to be dazzled. The park is out of this world!
Free shuttle buses connect the 3 different forests. You can then walk along clearly marked safe trails. Look out for the Ashima Rock formation. The best views of the park are from the Lion Pavilion. You can even check out subterranean karst Caves.
Where to Stay in Kunming
The first time we went to Kunming we stayed at the Grand Hyatt Kunming in the heart of the city. It’s a tall contemporary tower with breathtaking views over the city. We loved chilling by the indoor pool after a long day walking about the city.
The second time we stayed next to the lake, at the wonderful Green Lake Hotel. It has a lovely garden and a massive indoor pool. The rooms are big and have superb beds. However, what sets it apart are the views over the lake.
