The Ancient Town of Fenghuang is one of our favorite ancient towns in the entire world! It’s in one of our favorite provinces in China, Hunan. The town looks like a phoenix spreading its wings along the mountains. Thus the local name Phoenix Ancient Town.
Fenghuang has it all: lush green nature, gorgeous ancient architecture, traditional dwellings, delicious food, and warm hosts. That’s why you simply can’t skip it on your trip to China. We prepared this complete guide to the town. Hope you like it as much as we do!
Brief History
The Ming Dynasty (14th Century) established the town as a military post to defend the country’s southern border against the ethnic Miao and Tujia. However, the town prospered as a trading post during the Qing Dynasty, the last imperial dynasty in China (1636-1912).
All communities traded timber, spices, and salt. That’s why today, the town has a sizable Miao and Tujia population living in perfect harmony with the Han Chinese. You will see historic architecture from both dynasties, as well as tourists from all over China.
Places to Visit and Things to Do
Explore the Old Town on Foot
Our favorite thing to do in Fenghuang is to walk about the Old Town. In particular along the Tuo River. You have to walk at nights too. Fenghuang looks magical when locals lit lanterns along the river.
Don’t forget to explore Dongzheng Street. Historic architecture, food stalls, and silver shops line this stoned paved street. Stop by Shen Congwen Residence, the 19th Century home of the celebrated writer.
Another must see street is Laoying Street, less crowded than Dongzheng. Stop by Yang Family Batik Shop. The building is 100 years old. The Ancient Tea House is even older, 150 years! Their tea is delicious.
Visit the Rainbow (Phoenix Hong) Bridge
There are 12 bridges in Fenghuang. The nicest and most famous one is the Hong Bridge. Locals call it the Rainbow Bridge. The original bridge from 1670 was destroyed by floods and restored in 2000. It’s a 2 floor wooden bridge.
We strongly recommend stopping at the Chaoyang Palace Tea House on the top floor. The ancient tea house is a great place to catch a killer sunset over the river.
Another fantastic bridge over the Tuo River is Tiaoyan Bridge, built in 1703 and reconstructed after the floods. It’s a stepping stone bridge great for pictures.
Admire the Ancient Stilt Houses – Tujia Diaojiaolou
Fenghuang is famous around China for its unique wooden houses. The Miao and Tujia built them during the Ming and Qing Dynasties. They built their houses on stilts to protect them from floods and due to land scarcity. Notice the slanted roofs, delicate carvings, and cantilevered balconies.
The best place to see them is along the Tuo River, from the Hong Bridge to the Wanshou Palace. There are several along the backstreets of Laoying Street and near the Tiaoyan Bridge.
The oldest one we can see today is the Yang Family Stilt House. Built in the early 1800s, it’s in great condition.
Walk along the City Walls
The Ming built a 1.2 mile (2 km) City Wall around Fenghuang to protect it from the Miao. Only some sections have survived until today. The best preserved section is next to the East Gate. The 1573 tower has a stone archway and a wooden structure. You can climb to the top to enjoy epic views.
From there, follow the river north looking for sections of the wall. You can’t climb the West Gate Tower. The least reconstructed section is to the west. It’s also less crowded and more atmospheric.
Check out Wanming Tower
Fenghuang’s tallest and grandest pagoda is the Wanming Tower, near Hong Bridge. Locals call it the Tower of Ten Thousand Names. Once dedicated to literary arts and scholars, it is now a symbol of luck. It’s a lovely 7 story hexagonal tower 69 feet (21 m) tall.
Unfortunately, you can’t climb to the top of the pagoda. You can see it illuminated in all of its glory at nights. The Tiaoyan Bridge is the best place to take pictures of the pagoda and its reflection on the river.
Visit the Ancient City Museum
The best museum in Fenghuang is the Ancient City Museum. Locals know it as Cheo Baozhen’s Old House. It’s near the north bank of the Tuo River, on Shijia Long. The Chen family built their mansion in the 1890s. It is now a museum showcasing original furniture and fantastic calligraphy.
The house has a fascinating history. Cheo Baozhen was the governor of Hunan and lived there during the 100 Hundred Day Reform that set the stage for the 1911 Revolution.
Visit Wanshou Palace
In 1749, merchants built the Wanshou Palace as a guild. They used it to meet, worship ancestors, and pray to the goddess Mazu (sea). It’s on the north river bank, directly opposite Hong Bridge.
Today, it’s the Miao & Tujia Culture Museum. The collection inside includes rich silver and batik objects. The hall dedicated to the goddess has delicate stone and wood carvings. Check out the ancient theatre stage and the pagoda. The gold topped pagoda has 5 stories.
Take a Boat Tour along the River Tuojiang
We saved the best for last. We loved taking boat tours along the river. Yes, we took two: on a traditional bamboo raft and on an electric boat. Take the bamboo one early in the morning. The journey lasts 40 minutes and you can see local woman washing their clothes.
The other one we suggest taking it at night. It’s a bit shorter but you get to see the entire town lit by atmospheric lanterns. A must!
Both depart from Hong Bridge and Wanming Tower.
How to Get to Fenghuang
Tongren Fenghuang is the closest airport to the town. You can fly there from Shanghai, Beijing, Guangzhou, and Shenzhen. A shuttle bus from the airport to Fenghuang takes 1.5 hours and costs less than 10 US. You can take a taxi for 30 US and get there in under an hour.
The closest train station is Fenghuang Gucheng, some 6 miles (10 km) away. Fast trains arrive there from Changsha, Zhangjiajie, Guangzhou, and Shenzhen. There are even trains from Beijing (10 hrs), Shanghai (6-8 hrs), and Wuhan (4 hrs). From the station you can take a bus or a taxi to Fenghuang. You can buy train tickets here.
We believe you should go first to Zhangjiajie and then take the 1 hour fast train to Fenghuang. From Guilin trains take over 6 hours, just like buses.
You can also visit Fenghuang as part of this organized tour of Zhangjiajie.
Where to Stay
We had a great time at the Wang Jiang Reclusive Boutique Inn. The property is on the slope of the hill within walking distance to every attraction. It’s super quiet and has epic views of the hills and river. Our big room had comfy beds and a balcony.
We once stayed directly on the river at the Lazy Cat Riverside Inn. We had a big balcony overlooking the river and great beds. The owners were super nice and gave us a lot of tips.
