You can’t go to China and not visit one of its unique ancient towns. Located on the train line that connects Beijing and Xi’an, Pingyao Ancient City is easy to reach and well worth a visit.
Pingyao dates back to the 14th Century and is 556 Acres (225 hectares) big. Old city walls surround it. Within these walls, you will see fairy tale watch towers, fancy and decadent mansions, commercial streets and loads of atmosphere, though the city is undergoing a major face lift.
Brief History
We have to be honest. We didn’t know much about Pingyao’s history before we went. As architects, we wanted to see a perfect example of a Han central Chinese city. Little did we know that Pingyao was an important financial center during the 19th and early 20th Centuries.
The city was the financial center of the entire Qing Empire. In fact, the first draft bank in China, and one of the first in the world, was incorporated here. Pingyao was the first to launch bonds to protect merchants from thieves.
Places to Visit and Things to Do
Walk along the City Walls
In 1997, UNESCO included Pingyao in its List of World Heritage Sites. We are talking about the area within the ancient City Walls, and two temples out of the city. The almost intact walls are approximately 3.7 miles (6 km) long, and almost 40 feet (12 m) tall.
Walking along the walls is a must. We went in the morning and late in the afternoon. Enter the Old Town, and prepare to be dazzled. You will have 72 turrets and 4 gates to admire. Evidently, the views from the walls to the city will take your breath away.
Visit a Temple or Two
We believe the Confucian Temple in Pingyao is the best preserved Confucian Temple in China. Besides, the city’s oldest building is part of if: Dacheng Hall, from 1163. The temple is huge and has 5 gorgeous courtyards. You can walk there from the center in 20 minutes.
The City God Temple is 5 a minute walk north from the Confucian Temple. The original temple was built during the Song Dynasty (10th Century approx.), but the one we can see today is the result of two major reconstructions done in 1544 and 1859. The sculptures inside the Taoist temple will blow your mind away.
Visit the Ancient Government Office
The biggest and best preserved ancient governmental building in China is in Pingyao. We are talking about the massive Government Office on Yamen Street. The oldest building within the compound is from 1346. However, the communists dismantled the building in 1949.
Fortunately, it was brought back in all of its glory in 1998. The two law courts are fascinating. Don’t forget to check the prison to the west. A performance recreating ancient trials takes place at 9:30 AM, 11:00 AM and 3:30 PM in the primary courtyard.
Visit China’s Oldest Bank
Founded in 1823, the Rischengchang was China’s first bank. It’s within the city walls, so you can walk there in no time. The building is in great shape. We were pleasantly surprised by the very useful information displayed inside the museum.
It’s a classical style building typical of Shanxi merchants. You have three courtyards to explore within an area of 4000 sq. feet (1200 m2). We couldn’t help but marvel at China’s incredible history. From a trading powerhouse, to a communist power, back to a financial leader.
Get Out of the Old Town
We strongly recommend hopping on a taxi to visit two UNESCO Listed temples. The Shuanglin is some 4 miles (6k m) south of Pingyao. Zhenguo Temple is some 6 miles (10 km) north. Shuanglin is famous for its thousands of sculptures. We believe its trees are equally beautiful. Zhenguo Temple is famous for its incredible Buddha statues, the only 10th Century Buddha sculptures in the country.
The Wang Family Compound is considered as the grandest most luxurious ancient private residence in China. It’s 30 miles (50 km) south of Pingyao. Trust us, it’s worth your time. The Qiao Family Compound is 20 miles (30 km) north of Pingyao. It was the residence of one of the country’s richest financiers in the 19th Century. The furniture inside is exquisite.
Shop on the Ming and Qing Street
Opened in 1856, the Ming and Qing Street is once more the city’s most important commercial street. Locals know it as South Street. It’s over 2000 feet long (600 m) so take your time and admire the incredible Ming Dynasty and Qing Dynasty architecture.
Today, you can shop at more than 70 shops. The restaurants and tea houses are pretty grand too. We advise going in the evenings. The street looks lovely illuminated at nights. Our favorite museum in the street is the Furniture Museum.
Have a Traditional Chinese Massage
After biking and walking all day long, you will need a massage. We went to a parlor on an aisle next to pedestrian Ming and Qing Street, and got our first ever Chinese massage.
Chinese massages are in a league of their own. To us, way too strong. Thus, be sure to convey exactly how strong you want it. The locals are super nice and will accommodate your every need.
Enjoy Delicious Chinese Food
Honestly speaking, we discovered food in Pingyao by pointing! Whenever we saw someone eating something delish, we would simply point. The only two restaurants we remember are in two simple guesthouses: Deju Yuan and Tian Yuan Kui.
Pingyao is famous all around China for its incredible beef. Locals prepare these incredible stews for hours with tasty spices of all types. Another local staple is wowo. These pasta rings are cooked in a bamboo steamer and taste delicious.
Stay in a Historic Mansion
We stayed at the Elsewhere Hotel Inn Ancient City Center, one of the most beautiful hotels we ever been too. The hotel is a short distance from the main tourist area.
The house is centuries old, and was restored following old techniques and original materials. Rooms overlook a couple of patios. If that isn’t enough to convince you, service is superb: a charming family runs the house. We felt relaxed and pampered.
How to Visit Pingyao
At the entrance of the Ancient City, get the heritage ticket. You will be able to visit 22 attractions including the most important historical houses, the City Walls and the Temple of the City God.
Pingyao can only be accessed on foot. Our hotel gave us bikes for free. So we biked the full length of the ancient walls and about the residential areas. Then we parked our bikes and walked inside the pedestrian streets.
How to Get to Pingyao
As mentioned above, Pingyao is on the route from Xi’an to Beijing. Fast trains connect Pingyao with Beijing in just over 3 hours. The ride to Xi’an is somewhat shorter, around 2.5 hours. If you decide to fly to Taiyuan Wusu International Airport, you’ll need to take Metro Line 1 to Taiyuan South Station (Taiyuannan). From there, it’s a 30-minute fast train ride to Pingyao Old Town Station (Pingyao Gucheng).
Please note that there is another train station right next to Pingyao’s Old Town, simply called Pingyao. However, only older trains stop there, so the journey from Taiyuan takes about 1.5 hours. Taiyuan also has two train stations, but Taiyuan South is closer to both the airport and Pingyao, so there’s no need to go to Taiyuan Central Station. You can buy train tickets here.
